Traveling In Brazil

A dream of destiny …

TRAVELING IN BRAZIL … PORTO SEGURO, ARRAIAL D’AJUDA AND TRANCOSO

With 8,000 kilometres of coastline and an extension of 8.5 million square kilometres, the largest country in South America, it is difficult to choose a destination to visit within Brazil.

Apart from the cities most visited by international tourists, such as Rio de Janeiro and Foz do Iguaçu, my recommendation today is on one of the most beautiful coasts of this vast country,  in the State of Bahia. This Northeastern state is well known for another famous capital, Salvador. A city culturally rich in history, colonial architecture and Carnival.

But my special place in Bahia is Porto Seguro (Arraial D’Ajuda and Trancoso). Located in the southern part of Bahia, you can reach Porto Seguro from São Paulo in just 90 minutes by plane.

The city of Porto Seguro is one of the oldest in Brazil and has wonderful buildings from the time of the Portuguese colonization. A very conserved historical area in the centre is a must to visit. For years it was considered the city of parties, mainly during the carnival season. Nowadays it is much calmer.

From Porto Seguro Airport we headed to one of the most charming and naturally beautiful places I have ever been, Trancoso!  After exactly 30 years after my last visit, I decided to take my children to visit this magical place.

After a very bumpy ride of 26 Km from Porto Seguro, we arrived in Trancoso. The transfer was booked in advance by the hotel. It was an adventure, as it had rained and the road was quite challenging. But that’s what makes this place special too, difficult access.

I was determined to stay in the “Quadrado”, the main square of the village that is listed by the National Historical and Artistic Heritage (Iphan). Unesco.

The Square (Quadrado) kept its charm and originality. Its small colourful houses received new paint and purpose. Most have become luxury hotels and restaurants, but everything is very well preserved. The simplistic and rustic characteristics remain predominant. To find a place to stay at “Quadrado” can be difficult, as it has become a sophisticated place, where celebrities and important people tend to holiday.  The attention to refinement and luxury are mixed with the simplicity of the place. We stayed at Hospedaria do Quadrado, one of the charming little houses of the complex, it was very pleasant and had the best hotel bed ever!  

The recommended shoe is undoubtedly the famous “Havaianas” (Brazilian flip-flops). With a sandy floor everywhere, it’s difficult to wear anything else,  even in the poshest restaurants, no one dares to put on a shoe, or maybe it was just me with a relaxed “European” behaviour!

Stripped, charming and beautiful by nature, the Quadrado and its famous little church São João Batista dos Índios, dated between the 17th and 18th centuries, form the impressive ensemble of this place. The village and the views from behind the church, give a panoramic view of these beautiful parts of the coasts in Brazil, which brings all that laid back indulgence of this place, discovered in the ’70s by the hippies.

 The nightlife of the village is divided among tourists in the various restaurants, bars and designer stores and the life of the locals, who are at the opposite end of the square, by the stalls, listening and dancing to Brazilian local music, tasting typical food and selling arts and crafts at the little market. The choice of dinner can go from the exquisite Uxua with the renowned chef Roberta Sudbrack to the pastry (pastel) stall, where you can try all the special local delicacies, including “acarajé” (fried little cake from black-eyed peas, onions and prawns).

Our hotel had no breakfast, but as everything is very close, we enjoyed the experience of visiting different and very cool places every morning.

Trancoso’s beaches are spectacularly beautiful, as we were there in August they were almost empty. Total paradise!

Trancoso has transformed itself from the hippie paradise of the 70s to the luxurious destination of today, but its essence remains intact.

Leaving Trancoso was very difficult, but our destination was Arraial D’Ajuda and I was very excited to be back there too. Between Porto Seguro and Trancoso, this other village really surprised me due to so many changes. I hardly recognised it, apart from the famous central square with its also famous Church of Nossa Senhora D’Ajuda, a lot has changed. Today with many resorts and also larger, Arrail (as they call it in Brazil) remains very lively! The variety of hotels, “pousadas”, bars and restaurants are huge! For all tastes and pockets. The only thing that hasn’t changed is the relaxed and friendly atmosphere of the Bahian people and the increasingly eclectic population of the village.

The beaches are more lively but as beautiful as the whole coast and with more bars and restaurants than those in Trancoso.

I visited Café Da Santa on the church square, a beautiful and rustic looking place with saxophonist and refinement in delicacies, cakes and coffee. I thought for a moment that I was in São Paulo or in any other big city in the world because of the sophisticated food and atmosphere.

The activities in these areas are numerous, boat trips, visits to indigenous areas and the gastronomy are just wonderful.

After a week in the laidback Bahia, it’s very difficult to go back to reality! Don’t stay too long… you might never go back home.

If you want more tips, get in touch.